ただでさえ普段から綺麗にブレイクするAフレームのリーフブレイク。
本日は潮位、うねりの方角、風向き、光、何もかも条件が一致しエクセレント級の波に…..
波を待つときはワクワクと、乗る瞬間のスリルは最好調に、波を乗り終えピークに戻る時の景色は指をくわえて見てしまうほど美しいAフレーム。
どの瞬間をとっても最高以上でしかない特別な時間でした。
サーフィンはこれだからハマってしまうしやめられません。
またこの波に出会う日まで。
The A-frame reef break already breaks beautifully on a normal day.
Today, the tide level, swell direction, wind direction, and light—everything was perfectly aligned, resulting in excellent waves…
The anticipation while waiting for the waves was exhilarating, the thrill of riding them was at its peak, and the view of the A-frame as I returned to the peak was so beautiful I could only stare in awe.
Every moment was beyond amazing; it was a truly special time.
This is why surfing is so addictive and I can’t quit.
Until the day I encounter these waves again.
