サーフィンで初心者と上級者のスキルの一番の決め手となるのは『力の入れ加減』でしょう。
波に乗る時はボードのバランスを保たなくてはいけません。
そうなると普通であれば中腰で余分な力を入れてしまったり、ボードの上でフラフラと体軸を保つことも精一杯。
上級者のサーファーはどうでしょうか?
こんなにも優雅で美しく波に乗れるんです。
培った経験年数は体軸が物を言います。
揺れ動くサーフボードの上でもまるで安定感しか見せつけないライディング。
力を入れるのは誰もができること。
力を抜く脱力は意外と簡単ではなく、ゆとりや体幹がなくてはできないこと。
みなさんはどこまで力を入れずに優雅に美しくサーフィンできますか?
When it comes to surfing, the key factor distinguishing a beginner’s skills from an advanced surfer’s is likely how they manage their use of force.
Riding a wave requires maintaining balance on the board.
Naturally, beginners often tense up—adopting a semi-crouched stance with unnecessary strain—and struggle just to keep their body aligned and steady on the board.
What about advanced surfers?
They ride the waves with such grace and beauty.
Years of experience are reflected in their body alignment.
They display absolute stability in their riding, even atop a moving, unstable surfboard.
Anyone can exert force.
However, knowing how to relax—to release tension—is surprisingly difficult; it requires a sense of composure and a strong core.
To what extent can you surf gracefully and beautifully, without relying on unnecessary tension?
